Planking the deck

With cover boards, king plank and edging in place, I could start the planking process.   Each plank will be a 2.75" wide mahogany strip with a 1/4" maple strip in between for contrast.  Many boats built with mahogany decking leave a space between the planking and then fill it with either white caulk or white epoxy for the contrast.   To keep with my maple and mahogany theme, I decided to use maple strips instead.

To make the planks, I ripped the mahogany and maple. It is a good idea to get a new blade to reduce burning and provide clean cuts.  I bought a thin kerf Freund rip blade and was impressed with the smoothness and ease of cutting.   I decided it would be easier to glue the maple strips to the side of each mahogany strip so I could fit the piece as one unit.

I used short stainless steel nails in my gun to hold the strip while the glue dried.  You have to be careful to align the gun so it is centered and shots straight.  I had a few pop through which had to be removed, or else mark the board so that side is down.

This is the result.  A dark and light planking unit.  With enough made for the front deck, I started fitting the boards.  To help fit the planks I used paper to make templates of the profile.

Cut a paper strip the same width as the plank. Then lay it in position, overlap the edge and then mark the edge with the side of a crayon or pencil lead.  This replicates the shape needed.  Cutting on this line creates your template.

Mark this line on a plank and cut with a jig saw. Since the boat is symmetric (at least it should be - better check) you can cut two at once since the curves and lengths are complementary.   A little bit of sanding and you have a nice fit. 

 

After the planks are fit, I screwed them into the deck with drywall screws to hold their position.  These screws will also provide the clamping when I epoxy the boards into place.  I made sure these holes are centered in the mahogany strip and in a nice line across the boat. The holes will be countersunk and plugged to hide the holes, but the bungs are still noticeable, so you want a show a nice line on the finished product.