Planking the sides

With the plywood scarf joined and the weather getting warmer, it was now time to attach the plywood to the sides. While I had a template made from the roofing paper, I was hesitant to use it to cut the plywood based on its dimensions, so I put the actual panel against the side of the boat and clamped it at the chine.  Using a multitude of clamps, I started to clamp the panel around the boat.  From this, I marked the rough dimensions and cut it closer to the shape and size needed.  Resetting and using additional clamping, I was able to fit it into position. 

With the plywood clamped, I drilled and screwed the panel to the chine at the balance point.  Working forward to the stem I added more temporary screws.  I then started screwing at the sheer working rear.  This caused the rear to move up and I had to release and reset some of the clamps.
The curve of the plywood at the transom is quite severe and took a lot of clamping to get it home.  The plywood made a few cracks as I was pulling it into position.  The strap clamps helped pull it around.

With the entire piece in position, I added more temporary screws to ensure I could get the panel back in position when I glued it.   I also marked the position of the frames, chine and sheer on the inside of the panel so I could coat the gluing areas with epoxy resin.

 Before I removed the panel for gluing, I cut the panel for the transition joint.  This joint is where the bottom panel transitions from an overlapping joint to a butt joint. The point is just forward of frame 4 and shown here.   To make the transition, the side panel is trimmed to the middle of the chine from the transition point forward. The bottom panel will be trimmed to butt to this line.  Aft of this point, the side panel will be ground flush with the chine and the bottom panel will overlap.  The multifunction tool from Harbor Freight was very useful for cutting the panel.

 This picture shows the line that needed to be cut to the stem. It bisects the chine.

 With everything cut and aligned, I removed the panel to glue it.  I mixed 12oz of epoxy and coated the mating surfaces with the resin.  I then added cabosil and wood flour to make the adhesive and started applying the glue to all surfaces on the frame.  I then positioned the panel at the balance point and held it with a few screws.  I then screwed at the front to make sure the transition joint was aligned.  Finally, I aligned some of the holes at the transom/chine to get the panel in position.  I used an ice pick through the panel to find the matching screw holes.  After it was aligned, I clamped and screwed it along the chine, sheer, stem and transom.

Here is the stem after gluing and screwing.
After the epoxy set, I removed the clamps and trimmed the plywood to the frame.  I found the Japanese pull saw the best tool for the job.  It is flexible and doesn't require a back bone like a back saw.  It also cuts very quickly.  You just have to watch the direction of the cut when cutting across the grain, as you do at the transom, so you don't get splinters.