With one side planked, I repeated the process on the second side. I learned from the first side that alignment is a bit of a challenge when everything is covered with glue and handling the long panel is awkward. To help set the second side, I drilled two holes through the panel and chine, one at the balance point of the panel and one near the transom. These holes fit a 16 penny nail that I would use to reset the panel. After everything was trimmed and aligned, I glued it up and put the nail through the panel hole and hoisted the panel into the matching chine hole. I could then align the transom end with its nail. The panel was now in position and well aligned. Screwing and clamping along the chine and sheer completed the process.
After the epoxy set, I trimmed the second side. Final trimming was done with a plane, angle grinder with 50 grit sandpaper and a sanding block. The panels must be finished flush with and in alignment with the chines so the bottom panels will lie flat and not be distorted when attached.
If the discussion of the transition joint in the previous post was confusing, maybe this picture will help. You can see that the side panel is flush with the chine up to the transition point. The bottom panel will overlap the side and be trimmed flush with the side up that point. The side panel then becomes perpendicular to the chine so the bottom panel can butt against it.
I plan to cover the transom with mahogany plywood, so I made sure that the side panel and transom joint were also flush. A belt sander finished it very nicely. It almost looks like a boat!
The battens are in place, but not yet attached. That is the next step, and then the bottom panels can be fit and attached.
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