To attach the skeg I wanted to make sure it was square to the bottom. (You know what I mean, it truly isn't square because the boat bottom is a shallow V, but it should be square to the level line that boat rests on.)
To do that I positioned the skeg so the angle to the bottom was equal on both sides. I did this at the tallest part of the skeg. I then made two braces at the correct angle and clamped them to the skeg.
These braces keep the skeg in alignment while I positioned it and started drilling pilot holes. The rear of the skeg is 20" in front of the transom. The skeg is not supposed to be too close to the rear or its turbulence affects the boat handling, so they say.
I temporary screwed in the skeg at the rear, front and middle. The skeg had a slight curve so I had to push the middle to the center of the boat before I drilled a pilot hole.
Once attached, I drilled the remainder of the holes. I mixed a batch of epoxy with cabosil to make a peanut butter consistency glue. I buttered this onto the v-groove in the bottom of the skeg and put into position and screwed down with silicon bronze screws. I used 2" screws and some 3" screws. Some of the 2" screws had to be countersunk a bit to get sufficient depth into the keel. I used excess epoxy to fill the countersink holes. I also used my finger (with nitrile glove) to smooth and fillet the oozing epoxy between the skeg and hull.
Once screwed down, I removed the bracing blocks so they wouldn't get glued to the hull.
I have one more coat of epoxy resin to put on the entire hull before I can start final sanding and preparing to paint the bottom.
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